model questioning
 

What is the difference from a porsche 924 and 944?

Well the difference is a 924 (late 70's to early 80's) to a 944 is significant. the 924 used a 2.0L engine which was a non-interference CIS engine. The rear hatch spoiler was different, the front nose was more narrow, 4 lug wheels, the list goes on.

Now the difference between a 924S (1987-1988) and a 944 is fairly minimal. The 924S has the early style dash that the 944 used until early 1985. It used the same 2.5L fuel injected engine as the 944 did. And while the body was still more along the lines of the 924 in terms of style, certain things were upgraded like the suspension which used the same as the early 944 (wheels, brakes, etc). With slight differences in body styling, the 924S and the 944 are very similar cars.

I thank you for answering my question, but I have more, if you don't mind. I have just recently purchased an 1988 924s and have discovered that the engine is not receiving spark from the distributor but there is spark from the coil to the distributor, so what could be the problem?

Well, sounds like you have a bad distributor cap, or more likely the rotor underneath the cap is shot. Or......the timing belt is broken (which turns the rotor and creates spark on the cap).......If that is the case, get your wallet ready.

Thank you, lol I bought the car for the sole purpose of having a project car, but before I strictly worked on American vehicles so that was different, so should I just try a new rotor and cap if I see that the rotor is turning?

Easiest way to check is to look in the round inspection hole on the cover where the distributor mounts. It is at about the 1 oclock position. Mark with a paint pen, or just watch it with a flash light as someone tries to start the car. If the mark does not move, then the timing belt is broken.

Thanks, the only other issue that I know about with this vehicle so far is that the oil cooler is broke, should I put an aftermarket one, or should I try to get a genuine replacement?

What is broken about the oil cooler? There is no external oil cooler on the 924S, it is an internal cooler in a housing. Typically they just need to be resealed with a new gasket and o rings. The kit is about 30 bucks or so. I assume it has oil mixing in with the coolant in the expansion tank? If the internal cooler is shot for some reason (i haven't see that happen yet), there are plenty of used ones out there cheap.

Where, is the best place to look for parts? And, I just read a rumor, since the 944 has the same motor, and they made 944 turbo is it true you can mount a turbo on a 924, is there any specific models?

No, you can't just mount a turbo on a 924. You are talking about 4-5k to make the swap, and the cheapest way is to buy a turbo motor complete from a 944 turbo (wrecked, whatever). There is a pile of parts you need to make the conversion, and you will have to figure out how to mount the intercooler under the 924 body. It is far from being a cheap or easy swap. You are money ahead to just buy a 944 turbo and sell the 924S

good, than im just going to fix it as is, but where is the best place to find parts?

I tried some parts from ebay. They were preety good and not much expensive too.

Okay, I discovered that the oilcooler is leaking at some point, so what is the prefered way to remove it on my 88 924s

Pretty basic. Remove the oil pressure sender, remove the oil filter, remove the OPRV, remove the 4 bolts holding it on. (you will have to drop the ps pump out of it's mount and let it hang, and drop the front sway bar drop link on that side to get the housing out. You will need the alignment tool on reinstall.

Alright, remember I told you about the rotor, well the rotor is not spinning, so is the cam rotor assembly run a non disturbance timing belt, and how big is my problem, is it worth fixing?

You have a big problem with a broken timing belt. It is an interference motor, so you will have bent valves. You will not know how many until you pull the head and see. Expect at least 4 valves, and they are about 60 bucks each. Plus $175 gasket set and a front end rollers, belts, waterpump kit runs about $400. And you really should have new guides and seals put in the head and have it trued up while you have it off, so figure around $250 to have that done. The head R&R is about 13 hours of labor.