Hello,
Can anyone give me a estament of the cost for replacing the belts. should i change both belts, and the pullys?
Should i replace the water pump also. What would be the average price to get it done.
The 88_944 is in very good condition. The belt were replaced in 2003, but it is slapping the cover now, at idle.
Also a squeel from under the cover. I've been able to inprove the running, with a few adjustments.
Thanks for any help, and or ideals. Neal[/size][/size]

 

I would do it all so that it is fresh, and at the next interval, you will be able to get away with just doing the belts. Waterpump, belts and rollers are 10 hours of labor, and I would do the front oil seals while you are in there, so add an additional hour of labor. Parts will run you about 500-550 for everything, I can get you prices for everything you will need if you would like. If you are doing it yourself, you will need some special tools: A pulley wrench for removing the balance shaft pulleys, and a belt tensioner. www.arnnworx.com for the tools....he makes knock offs cheap and good quality.

 

Sorry to butt on, but does he have the tool to lock the flywheel in place? for cheap?
TIA
Henry

 

Yes he does. I do not use the flywheel lock to do the timing belt though, you don't have to remove the crank pulley to get the t-belt on....it will slide by if you work it a little.

 

Thanks for the info Doc. After further inspection the timimg belt cover was loose, and the engine was lopeing badly.
The only big problem is a bad oil leak coming from the lower balance shaft seal or maybe the oil cooler?
Can u give me some advice on the best way to deal with this.
It leaks pretty bad while running. I don,t want to have to spend a lot of money, if i don,t have to. I can do the job myself, but some things are better left to the pros. The gears and the sprockets, look like a big job and u need the tools to remove them. Overall the car is in very good conditon.
Thanks Neal

 

The job really isn't all that bad. www.clarks-garage.com in his garage shop manual under camshaft belts will literally walk you through the entire job (and waterpump).

 

Thanks you Clark! Outstanding info...
Doc I am down to the 2 belts. One thing i found is, the T-belt tensoinor is not touching the belt. So there is a ton of slopp. I can turn the crank atleast 5 degs. before the cam starts to move. That can't be good... I,m at TDC, and ready to keep going to the seals. I don't have a flywheel lock tool, so i am alittle nervous to go on and remove the belts. I think i will buy the kit, with all the parts to do the whole job. Is the kit from 944online.com of good gualitiy parts? Thank Neal

 

I think you are looking at the timing belt idle roller, not the tensioner. The idle roller (which is round and smooth) should not touch the belt, and is only there to keep the belt from slapping around. The tensioner is a toothed roller, and if the belt were not touch it, well that would be disastrous.

 

Neal, If you need parts, I can sell you everything you need for the job. Just let me know.

Buy the tools from Bruce Arnn at www.arnnworx.com

 

Doc
You are right, it was the roller that i was looking at. But i did find that the tenionser was adjusted fully, and the turnbuckel adjuster was just hanging down loose. The T-belt was very loose. The B-belt was ok. So yes i need parts. If you could give me a list that would be great. The only thing i need to do is remove the crankshaft pully/gear. Everything else is off.
Neal