Just got my first 944 and its a little rocket, but its got a noise that consistantly eminates from the right side and is most noticable when the windows are up. It makes a sound like an engine at somewhat high rpm or your hard drive spinning only louder. Here is what I do know, this noise is not associated with the engine and intensifies in sound as the car goes faster (mabye its to remind me not to speed), When I put the car in a hard right turn the noise goes away and predictably returns when I straighten the wheel back out (only goes away in right turns). The tires arent rubbing anything and im beginning to think its a wheel bearing. What do you guys think.

Thanks
-Rob

 

First place to start would be check your wheel bearings. Grab the wheel and shake it first with your hands at 9 and 3 oclock as facing the wheel, then at 12 and 6. If you can get the wheel to wiggle, it is time for new bearings. If the wheel is solid, check the rock shield on the inside of the rotor, sometimes they warp over time and rub against the rotor, but usually not related to turning etc, more constant.

 

Yep, I did what you said and the left rear is the problem. I just spent the whole day replacing the rear bearings my self and the noise is finally gone.... the only question I have left now is what I should've torqued the axle nut to. I looked online, paragon-products and clarks garage say 350 FT/LBS (thats a lot of torque). But I called a porsche shop up in Houston and they said 111 FT/LBS. I chose 111 ft/lbs (my torque wrench only goes to 250 FT/LBS). I would like to know who's right cause those torques are quite different.

Thanks for the help,

-Rob

 

It depends on what year car you have. The late model cars are 350 ft-lbs. I'd have to look up the early model torque spec.

Regards,

 

Mine is an 1983 944. Its the type of axle with an inner and outer bearing and the axle nut is a castle nut with a cotter pin to hold it.

-Rob

 

Everything i can find says both early and late model are torqued to 350ft/lbs (368 according to the FSM for aluminum arms).

 

Thanks for the help, I talked to another porsche dealer mechanic an he said 250-300 ft-lbs or just to get an impact wrench and torque it down real good. So I'm going with the 350 ft-lbs and that will be it. Thanks again guys, I appreciate the response.

For any one else reading this post and is new to this like I am here are some additional things I found out when it comes to changing rear wheel bearings. Finding an 8mm triple square tool is a must to get those cv joint bolts off and on. The problem is, the only place I could find this tool was through snap-on (they also were the only ones who knew what a tripple square was). Craftsman doesnt have them in the right size, neither did NAPA. Plan to take all day for one wheel, unless you know what youre doing. Clarks-garage and Paragon-products have instructions on changing the rear wheel bearings my haynes manual doesnt even mention rear wheel bearings! this project ran me about 60 bucks for parts including that triple square. Replace the inner and outer seals too you will probably ruin them when you pull them out.

-Rob

 

I found some triple square bits at a local tool store (Cummins Tool) that are made by KD tool and were a buck a piece. The 8 has been through 2 clutch jobs and many CV joint removal/replace and is holding up good. Having a good tool like snap on really cuts down your chances of stripping the heads though as well, which we use at the shop.