85.5 944. I am replacing the clutch. I am following the shop manual. I am at the point where I slide the torque tube back far enough to remove the clutch bell housing to access the clutch. The torque tube will not slide back far enough for 2 reasons. First, there a "dogs" or "ears" welded to the torque tube and also to the suspension. If I try to raise the tube enough to clear the ears the top of the torque tube to trans housing hits the gas tank above and will not slide back. I am stuck? I have tried to turn the tube a little to allow the dogs or ears, what ever you wan to call them, and get them to slide past each other, but that doesn't work either. I have solutions,, pull the gas tank... don't really want to do that, and the manual doesn't say that it needs to come out. Another solution is to cut the ears off the torque tube and then weld them back on after it is reassembled. A third solution and now I believe that it may have been the best would have been to just pull motor. My books, Hanes and a shop manual just say to support the engine and slide the torque tube back far enough to access the clutch. I could drop the rear suspension,, NO!
Can I slide the torque shaft, ie,, drive shaft back in the torque tube? Any help,, any help please?
thanks,
Mike

 

Check out the followinginfo by Michael Kehr in NJ foranswers regarding your task. It will answerevery question, and them some.

http://www.connact.com/~kgross/FAQ/944faqcu.html

 

You need to rotate the Torque tube 180 degrees, so the teeth are up out of the way. Make sure the front of the tube is not catching on the stud on the bellhousing, which will prevent it from rotating around.

 

Thanks guys,
I worked on it last night and was able to accomplish the task. I was simple once I new the key.
I was not pulling the shift rod all the way out. I didn't understand the book correctly or something. I thought I only needed to push it up out of the way. with it still in place above the torque tube I was not able to spin it, as I did try before. I pulled the shift rod all the way out the back and then was able to twist the torque tube. I then had clearance to slide out below the gas tank. Now, the clutch fork shaft is stuck in there pretty good. It is not wanting to come out easily. I have is soaking in PB Blaster to hopefully loosen it up a little. I do have a bolt threaded in and the lock screw completely out. I think I am going to hit the parts store and pick up a longer bolt. I was able to attach a slide hammer to the bold using vise grips. I did not want to hit it too hard though. it would be a real bummer to crack something. Lets hope the PB Blaster loosens it up a little. If it still doesn't want to break loose I have though about applying a little heat to the case?.. I don't like that idea but .... If I do it will be a small amount. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks for the help.
Mike

 

One of the other tricks i use to use is to thread in as long of a bolt as possible, and then take a big vise grip and secure it under the head. Then hit downward with a hammer. Sometimes they take a lot of force to break loose, even with a slide hammer. I have really had to lay into some in the past hard, and have never broken anything, so don't worry too much about that.

 

thanks Doc,
I didn't have much time to work with it today. I did hit it a few more times withe the slide hammer and it didn't budge. I lubed it up again with PB. I will "lay into it" tomorrow. It's got to come out of there! I did go get a longer bolt from the parts store. It's coming out tomorrow. That is the only hurdle I have left,,, I think. I assume it would be best to resurface the flywheel even if it doesn't look that bad. And while the flywheel is off I should replace the rear main seal? right?
anything else?
thanks,
Mike

 

I managed to get my clutch out, finally. In the process we damaged what I believe is the Reference Mark Sensor. It was in the hole closest to the clutch. The one closest to the engine came out okay but the other would not come out. It only came 1/4 inch and no more. I ended up braking the plastic tab off. I have found a replacement, I think. Are both these sensors the same?
They look identical. I found this sensor. Is it the right one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=350077263489
It looks like the correct one but it is called crank position sensor.
any help.
Thanks.
Mike